Montana Riverboats Test Domain Roadkill

Stem Take one:

Stem Take one:

The 3 - 1/2" side of this triangle (the stem) faces to the inside of the boat.


Stem Take two:

The diagram below is the same stem with a knotch made by adding 1/4" inch to front as shown.


Stem Take three:

Stem take three is no stem at all. It is perfectly acceptable to have no stem at all. With stitch and glue construction you can use wire or nylon strap ties to pull the matching downstream ends of the panels together around a thick wet bead of epoxy putty. Then smooth the resulting squeezeout with a physicians tongue depressor (or with any home made tool). A wooden stem is convenient during assembly but not in any way required.




Use this diagram as a layout template, to get a suggested shape for the rear transom. Extend the sides of this diagram upwards as needed to fit the rear cut on the side panels, as you made them.

Stitches ... the photo below shows an example of stitching done with #9 wire. If you stitch at all you can use bailing wire or nylon strap ties.

Stitching Stitching is optional. You can simply wet out and putty up the matching surfaces and weight the bottom panel down.

I like to make 4 stitches only, two on each side at each end of the boat in order to guarantee alignment, and then to use weight for everything else.


Here’s an example of a (Plascore) bottom panel gluing down onto the side panels with weight only--without stitches of any kind.

When I actually do stitching I usually use nylon strap ties. But wire like this works fine too. With honeycomb core bottoms I don't actually stitch anything anymore. You could do stitching. But it isn't necessary. You can lay the bottom panel down on top of the upside-down-hull and and then glue it all up and then weight it down with boxes of clamps, can of paint, car batteries, etc. I don't necessarily recommend that. I just mention is as an alternative. Knowing you can do something in numerous ways sometimes makes things click a little better.