Table of Contents
- Table of Contents
- Materials Notes
- Stitch and glue history
- Framed to Stitch and Glue
- Scale Model Making
- New Hull Designs and Full sized models
- Scarfing Plywood
- Stitching in stitch and glue construction
- Plascore Bottoms
- Rocker-reducing Background
- Gunwale choices
- Repair Manual
- Building the Honky Dory
- Stem Take one:
- Side Panel Layout
- Seat parts diagrams
- Full size patterns
- Stations or Temporary Trepezoid shaped rib-like formers
- Part One
- Part Two Working with WEST SYSTEM Materials
- Part Three: Actually Building the Plywood-Fiberglass Boat
- Part Four: Roll over the boat
Seat parts diagrams
Note: This page is primarily for displaying seat part diagrams. The seat building and installation process is described in greater detail in Part 4
The diagram above helps to define the compound angles formed at the ends of the pssenger’s seat rail and the rower’s seat rail, where those horizontal supports meet and fit the inside surface of the side panels.
The seat rails are the horizontal boards mounted on gussets at one end, that fit flush to the side of the boat at the other end. The angles above can be printed out on an 8”x10” piece of paper on your home printer, or in bigger format at a place like Kinkos. Then lay the paper down on a piece of plywood so the reference line at image left is flush to the edge of the plywood. Then transfer the angles one-by-one onto a bevel square. And then mark the horizontal and vertical component of the front seat rail onto the end of a fir 1”x4” that is cut a good 6” inches too long. Cutting teh seat rails too long allows you to gradually wittle away at angled end until it fits properly. Cutting the seat ral off to finished length, so it is flush to the side of the corresponding seat gusset is the very last step.
Transfer the angles from bevel square to one end of the seat rail. Mark the angle well with a pencil. Cut the resulting compound angle as close as possible with a skill saw or or miter box. Or with a hand saw (if you have one!).
Then continue to work the angle with a sharp block plane until the compound angle meets your pencil lines. Then hold it in place against the side of the boat to see if further block plane adustments are needed.
Make the rower's seat from 1x4 boards. I like fir or mahogony. If you used the suggested side gussets (seat-gusset link at screen left) the rower's seat will end up approximately 40" long. But that varies. You have to make the length about 1/4" less than the parallel distance between the two side rails (that rest in the knotches at the corner of the seat gussets in front, and extend back to a point, where the rails meet the side of the boat).
The inside frame you sit on is 16" x 16". The rectangles left and right on the rower's seat frame get 1/4" plywood glued to the bottom to form tackle pockets. The top edge of the 16" frame sections, that form the left and right sides of the middle rectangle, have a series of 1/2" half holes on one inch centers (see seat-stile-blank link at screen left), that hold the rope sections in place).
After the frame is made, cut to 2"x2" pieces to fit loosely inside the tacklel pockets, parallel to the side frames. Drill 3/8" holes down through the 2x2 pieces, one hole at each end, approx 3" in from the end. Those two holes will take a long 1/4" bolt and wing nut. After you weave the rope, the bolt wing nut and 2x2 can be tighted up to put tension on the rope (see the rowers-seat-photo.jpg link at screen left). Also drill one 9/16" hole 1" from one end of each 2x2. That hole will be used to thread the 1/2" rope. When the seat is assempbled, glued and finished (epoxy and varnish or paint) then you can weave the rope seat. Use 1/2" nylon rope.
You'll need about 35' Buy at least 40' of rope. Tie a knot in one end. Thread the rope through the 9/16" hole from the bottom up. Pull the rope tightly across the seat, so it rests into and onto the dished-out half circle on the top edge of the seat frame, across the seat. Then weave the rope underneath the 2x2 on, back over top the rail and over to the other side. Continue weaving the rope until done. Thread the tag end through the final 9/16" hole in the other 2x2 and knot it off. Tighten up from below, using the wing nuts.
Here a temporary rectangular box is made out of plywood scraps so if fits tightly between the side lockers and placed over a center line, in order to help positon the parts during glue-up.
The following is a bare bones simple rower’s seat that works well in the Honky Dory. It is a simple rectuangular frame with two tackle pockets left and right, with an open area in the middle, over which rope is stretched to form a seat.
Cut a board 7" inches wide by 16" iniches long, from fir or mahogony. Drill a series of 5/8"
holes one inch on center, down the middle of the board. Put one such hole dead
center on the board. Then layout left and right on one inch centers from there.
That will guarantee the holes end at the same distance from each end the end of
the 16" board. Then split the board right down the middle, from end to end,
through the middle of the holes, using a table saw or skillsaw. Round off the
top edges with a block plane and sand paper. The dished-out half-circle holes
on the top edge this board will hold the ropes of the rope seat in a later