Table of Contents
- Table of Contents
- Materials Notes
- Stitch and glue history
- Framed to Stitch and Glue
- Scale Model Making
- New Hull Designs and Full sized models
- Scarfing Plywood
- Stitching in stitch and glue construction
- Plascore Bottoms
- Rocker-reducing Background
- Gunwale choices
- Repair Manual
- Building the Honky Dory
- Stem Take one:
- Side Panel Layout
- Seat parts diagrams
- Full size patterns
- Stations or Temporary Trepezoid shaped rib-like formers
- Part One
- Part Two Working with WEST SYSTEM Materials
- Part Three: Actually Building the Plywood-Fiberglass Boat
- Part Four: Roll over the boat
Stations or Temporary Trepezoid shaped rib-like formers
As per the writen instructions these trapezoid shapes are temporary. They are not permanent parts of the boat. They can be made from what ever scraps you have. You can use 3/4” inch particle board plywood or 1x6” pine boards.
Make them with square edges at first and then round off the edges with a round-over bit on a router. They are attached to the side panels on the side panel layout lines, with drywall screws or with a finish nailer.
If you use a finish nailer it is best to cut two dozen or more 2”x2” plywood scraps first. Hold those scraps on the outside of the side panel (the hull is build upside down, with bottom up) so the finish nail shoots through the scrap, through the side panel and then into the center of the temporary rib-like former.
If you use drywall screws and if you plan a bright, natural wood finish make those temporary fastening points down low and up high--near the chine and underneath where a gunwale strip will go in a later step. If you plan to paint the hull (perhaps still with bright finished seats and gunwales) it doesn’t matter where you put the screw holes because those holes can be puttied up prior to priming and painting.
Station one is closest to the downstream end of the boat. Station six is closest to the transom.